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Post by randombloke on Jan 12, 2010 18:59:00 GMT -4
275 leaves can easily accommodate 500 sides of text, plus a few spare for titles etc. and various people use page in either sense, and occasionally interchangeably.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 12, 2010 10:37:51 GMT -4
Alternatively, specialist airbrush thinning agents (basically the same acrylic carrier medium as paints are made with, but in pure form) are commercially available, as are pre-thinned specially formulated airbrush paints (I love the Vallejo Model Air range myself), and of course airbrush cleaning agents which may (or may not be) more efficient than Windex. What sort of paint are you using again? If it's not designed for "miniatures" or "modelling" (as most children's acrylics are not) it may well have humongous pigment grains, which are the primary cause of most clogs in needle-airbrushes - myself I use a entry-level spraymaster most of the time and even that clogs with heavily-pigmented paint; I hate to imagine what that same paint would do to something as highly-strung as an Iwata...
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Post by randombloke on Jan 9, 2010 6:43:05 GMT -4
Remember, with airbrushes, 4-5 light coats (made with sweeping gestures) is almost always better than one heavy coat; you get more consistency, it looks closer to the finished "real" product and the colours generally come out brighter and more vibrant.
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Selene
Jan 6, 2010 16:48:55 GMT -4
Post by randombloke on Jan 6, 2010 16:48:55 GMT -4
Sorry to bump such an old topic, but I thought I'd just add this link, which was brought to my attention through the medium of YouTube no less: www.jaxa.jp/press/2008/05/20080520_kaguya_e.htmlIt's a press release showing a 3D rendering of the A15 site and locale and making some interesting comparisons with the photographs taken by the Apollo astronauts.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 5, 2010 17:28:17 GMT -4
I don't know what that component is specifically (it looks like some sort of plumbing; possibly a fill cap) but "finger torque only" generally means "open jar by hand" or near enough. More specifically, it means that artificial torque multiplication devices (spanners, screwdrivers etc.) are not to be used to manipulate the object.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 5, 2010 7:53:59 GMT -4
Yeah, the only thing that happens at half-speed on the moon, relative to earth, is falling. Everything else is conducted at the same speed, with allowances for circumstances. Like having a huge rubber pressure suit on and carrying a 'portable' AC unit.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 4, 2010 10:01:00 GMT -4
Except that there are individual samples that are more massive than the sum of all previous robotic sample return missions. Heck, even a pebble 2" across would be bigger than most robots could come up with.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 25, 2009 4:00:33 GMT -4
Anyone that thinks that Jack White has ANY photo analysis skills can't possibly know what they are talking about. Well...he should be able to tell a photograph of a rock apart from the rock in the photograph, right? That's technically analysis... Of course, if it turns out he can't, I shall do my best to pretend to be surprised.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 21, 2009 7:26:34 GMT -4
Basically, once you have the basics down, air-brush compressors are all much the same. Certain brands give better guarantees or what have you but its the same as a TV really; once you've got picture and sound, everything else is just sparkly bits.
I would choose the one I linked over the one you did simply because it has a tank, but I suspect you can probably find that model or similar ones cheaper still. In fact if you looked for one like that but with only one piston and a slightly smaller tank you might get it at the same price as the one you originally linked.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 21, 2009 4:57:53 GMT -4
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Post by randombloke on Dec 20, 2009 22:23:57 GMT -4
Things you should look for in any compressor, especially for airbrushes: - A storage tank, which acts as a buffer to supply a continuous smooth stream. - A variable regulator valve with gauge, preferably lockable, coupled to an automatic shut-off - A condenser/moisture trap to remove excess water from the compressed air - Compatible fittings or adaptors for your hose fittings (the number of people who forget to check this....)
That said you shouldn't need anything terribly large for one airbrush; I got a 3L tabletop piston compressor w/tank that's nearly silent for fairly cheap, but that was from a local aircraft modelling shop. I haven't since kept up with makes and models so I can't advise you on a specific one, but once you know what you're looking for and why, you can't go far wrong.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 15, 2009 6:29:05 GMT -4
Yeah, didn't one of them become quite the shutter-bug on that account? Specifically taking the camera everywhere and after a while not even bothering to line he shots up by eye because he got his proprioception trained so well?
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Post by randombloke on Dec 11, 2009 13:56:30 GMT -4
The Earth does, and so do capsules, therefore, relative* to the Earth and/or the capsule, the belts do move. there is only a limited period in each Earth orbit where firing the boosters now instead of +/-5 minutes from now will put you both on the proper trajectory to intercept the moon and also avoid the thickest part of the belts.
That point moves relative to the Earth, the belts and the capsule because everything is in motion up there.
*i.e. taking either as your static reference frame.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 11, 2009 10:54:26 GMT -4
Alternatively, for those of you wishing to spend ridiculous amounts; silver leaf should be available in most high-end artist supply shops, particularly in university towns. You could probably get a"starter kit" type arrangement with its own adhesives and applicators etc., just remember to fix it with varnish once you're done.
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Post by randombloke on Dec 9, 2009 21:08:17 GMT -4
For applying thin strips of foil, may I suggest watered down PVA glue and a medium sized dry brush as suitable equipment?
Apply the PVA with an older brush that you don't mind losing to the vagaries of drying glue then take your strip of foil and place it by hand initially. You can then use the dry brush to make the final positioning and also to wipe away excess glue; remember to wash it thoroughly.
Patience is of course the key here, and you might even want to wait for the first strip to set before applying the next, both as a solid-ish reference and to avoid the frustration of having one strip nudge the other(s) out of alignment as you move it around.
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