|
|
Post by randombloke on Dec 20, 2009 22:23:57 GMT -4
Things you should look for in any compressor, especially for airbrushes:
- A storage tank, which acts as a buffer to supply a continuous smooth stream.
- A variable regulator valve with gauge, preferably lockable, coupled to an automatic shut-off
- A condenser/moisture trap to remove excess water from the compressed air
- Compatible fittings or adaptors for your hose fittings (the number of people who forget to check this....)
That said you shouldn't need anything terribly large for one airbrush; I got a 3L tabletop piston compressor w/tank that's nearly silent for fairly cheap, but that was from a local aircraft modelling shop. I haven't since kept up with makes and models so I can't advise you on a specific one, but once you know what you're looking for and why, you can't go far wrong.
|
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Dec 20, 2009 22:37:09 GMT -4
I checked some out today, and they range from AUS$25 to $125. The cheapest doesn't have compatible fittings, and none have a regulator, buffer tank or condenser.
I'll have a look on eBay.
|
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Dec 20, 2009 23:19:36 GMT -4
|
|
|
|
Post by randombloke on Dec 21, 2009 4:57:53 GMT -4
|
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Dec 21, 2009 6:01:11 GMT -4
Cheers. You think that is a better example? It's not that much more expensive. Please keep in mind I am a total beginner at this. On the other hand, buying good equipment which will suit and last for years makes sense rather than buying cheap stuff that I'll discard after a few months.
|
|
|
|
Post by randombloke on Dec 21, 2009 7:26:34 GMT -4
Basically, once you have the basics down, air-brush compressors are all much the same. Certain brands give better guarantees or what have you but its the same as a TV really; once you've got picture and sound, everything else is just sparkly bits.
I would choose the one I linked over the one you did simply because it has a tank, but I suspect you can probably find that model or similar ones cheaper still. In fact if you looked for one like that but with only one piston and a slightly smaller tank you might get it at the same price as the one you originally linked.
|
|
|
|
Post by George Tirebiter on Dec 22, 2009 2:10:54 GMT -4
Don't just limit your search to airbrush compressors. Small compressors for "trim and finish" applications (pneumatic brad nailers) can also work for airbrushes if you have the right fittings or adapters. These are under 2HP, with a tank of 5 gallons/20 liters or less. Larger compressors will also work, they just supply a lot more air than you need.
In my case, I bought a 1HP 1gal. compressor from a local contractor-supply store, and even though I had to add a moisture trap it was still less expensive than most tanked "airbrush" compressors. As an added bonus, it's also great for inflating tires.
|
|
|
|
Post by dragonblaster on Dec 28, 2009 17:22:54 GMT -4
the Revell LM kit doesn't have any RCS plume deflectors. I'm doing the 1/48 Revell LM, and it does have RCS plume deflectors. They're too thick, but they're there. However, New Ware's 1/48 LM detail kit no. 68 ( www.culttvmanshop.com/Lunar-Module-detail-set-148-from-New-Ware_p_657.html) has proper scale deflectors and a description of how to modify the kit supports. And a docking window with reticle. And a new porch. And new docking and front hatches. And new pads. And new antennas. And a new docking target. Allied to the New Ware MESA PE set, this is a must-have detail set for any 1/48 Revell LM builder who's looking for accuracy, |
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Jan 2, 2010 2:59:15 GMT -4
The Revell kit I have is #04828, the LM Eagle kit. No plume deflectors on that one but the next LM kit I build I'll know a lot more.
Now.... I decided to start learning to airbrush. I was told it was a good idea to use water to get the feel then use paint on some card, etc. Once happy, I would use paint on the model.
I used a can of Humbrol compressed propellant (still haven't bought a compressor). Screwed the connector onto the top of the can. Practiced with water for a little bit then decided to call it quits for the night. Figuring that the compressed air is released by puncturing a seal, I decided to leave the airbrush connected up.
Next afternoon, cleared the worktable, mixed some paint and went to practice on the scrap board.
No air. Can empty.
Huh? I didn't hear any leaks, etc. Is this normal? If you are going to use a can of compressed air you use it all that day because it won't be there the next?
P.S. Couldn't go out to buy another can because I had some drinks this arvo; now I have to wait until tomorrow and hope the hobby shop is open Sundays!
|
|
|
|
Post by Apollo Gnomon on Jan 2, 2010 14:14:39 GMT -4
That's been my experience with cans. They leak. And they have less in them than you think.
The various fittings and the valve inside the airbrush all contribute to air loss. If you have to use them, make sure the valve in the airbrush is clean and well tightened, and you can put a bit of teflon tape (the white stuff plumbers use) on the threaded connectors.
My stepdad was a signpainter, and he used canned air when he was airbrushing signs in the field, like for gold leaf jobs done on site. He had to take an extra can to use after lunch, because invariably the morning's can would be empty.
As George said, look into small trim-nailer compressors. The cheap chinese things with nylon rings should be fine, and the oil-less compressors put out cleaner air. (Just don't spray ceiling texture with one, I found that out the hard way. Provided a great opportunity for me to buy teh compressor of my dreams, before I really wanted to.) The regulator for a standard compressor isn't really designed for the low pressures needed by an airbrush, so you'll want an inline air pressure valve. For all I know you may already have one, some airbrushes come with.
As far as fitting compatibility, you should be able to build a custom hose if you can't find one. That's what I did. The hose that came with the airbrush was flimsy and kinda worn out anyway.
|
|
|
|
Post by Jason Thompson on Jan 2, 2010 19:27:05 GMT -4
Are there two versions of the Revell 1:48 LM? I have been looking at the instructions for the New Ware LM detail kit I bought to make my Revell LM model more accurate and it seems to refer to parts that are not in my model. The RCS plume deflectors are one such part, but the arrangement of the leg attachment to the descent stage also seems different. There are some extra 'leg locking struts' in the New Ware kit that go between parts that are not in my Revell model.
|
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Jan 3, 2010 1:08:51 GMT -4
*sigh*
More questions.
I can see I will need a compressor. The cans don't last long enough, and when they go cold I lose pressure (I was warned about this). Of course, when I first open it, the pressure is too high!
I'm painting an F4D-1 Skyray as a practice model. Upper surfaces grey, low surfaces white.
I applied the grey clumsily and had a little bit of running, but generally it is okay.
The white, however, is another story. Getting the correct thinning ratio was a problem (using Hobby Color acrylic), eventually using paint / water ratio of about 1:2 (which seems unusual). When applied, though, it tends to 'spot'. The cohesion of the paint is greater than the adhesion and so it forms little drops on the surface. I cleaned the plastic when it came out of the box (warm soapy water, rinse, air dry) and it didn't happen with the grey colour.
Ideas? Obviously white will be a primary colour for the Saturn V.
|
|
|
|
Post by dragonblaster on Jan 3, 2010 5:53:51 GMT -4
Obviousman, I would go as follows: - Wash the model in soapy water, rinse in distilled water and allow to dry thoroughly
- Scarify the model with fine steel wool
- Make sure the brush is surgically clean, the needle is sharp and straight
- Prime the model with e.g. Mr Surfacer primer
- Experiment with spraying distance until you get an even coat
- Do 3 coats or so, allowing each to dry before carrying on.
|
|
|
|
Post by Obviousman on Jan 9, 2010 5:00:38 GMT -4
Well, I have a compressor now. The model AS186, 1/6th HP, oil-less single piston, 3.0L tank. Now I have to practice using it with the air brush. I'll still use the F4D I am working on. I bought Tamiya spray cans to finish the job but the colour don't look right despite being the ones recommended. The upper grey is pretty much okay but the "insignia white" for the lower surfaces is far more grey than a bright white. Repaint coming up after I finish sealing the gaps!
|
|
|
|
Post by randombloke on Jan 9, 2010 6:43:05 GMT -4
Remember, with airbrushes, 4-5 light coats (made with sweeping gestures) is almost always better than one heavy coat; you get more consistency, it looks closer to the finished "real" product and the colours generally come out brighter and more vibrant.
|
|
