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Post by Obviousman on Jan 9, 2010 17:37:49 GMT -4
Thanks. This model already has too many coats on it, but for the CSM that is exactly what I'll be doing.
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 12, 2010 7:13:36 GMT -4
*sigh*
This airbrushing is giving me the ... well, you know. I'm using the Aztek A270 and it's erratic. Firstly, although they say to thin the (acrylic) paint, it doesn't work. It's too thin even when I used a paint / distilled water ratio of about 8:1. I have to use it basically unthinned.
Next problem is that it is spotty; the paint is coming out in spits and spurts. I have cleaned the nozzle and the takeup jar and they are perfectly clean. Even so....
Lastly is that the nozzle seems to clog whilst I am waiting for a coat to dry. I apply a light coat, disconnect the paint jar, and give the brush a quick squirt to make sure that the nozzle is clear. Even so, it's clogging. Between coats I have to disassemble the lot, and soak it in Windex. When I am ready to apply the next coat (about 20-30 mins) I wash it, dry it and reassemble the whole lot.
Even with doing all that, I get the spurts. I'm not getting any "skill" with it because I have to gently shake the whole thing to get paint to come out. None of this gentle spray motion, etc.
So - is it me or the airbrush? The reviews I read for the A270 (after purchasing) aren't great but they did say it was okay for a beginner.
I'm thinking of a new brush. Candidates are the Badger 155-7 ANTHEM PROFESSIONAL set for AUS$145 or the Badger 350-9 for AUS$149. Both seem to have good reputations.
Comments?
(Should I try using enamel paint?)
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Post by drewid on Jan 12, 2010 9:20:24 GMT -4
If the action of the needle is smooth and the needle clamp isn't catching or slipping then it's probably the paint. The thickness should be like milk. Perhaps that particular paint doesn't react well to being thinned?
Another thing you can try is to blow the nozzle through with plain water after a coat rather than just air, followed by air to dry it.
As to Badger, they are a good brush.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 12, 2010 10:37:51 GMT -4
Alternatively, specialist airbrush thinning agents (basically the same acrylic carrier medium as paints are made with, but in pure form) are commercially available, as are pre-thinned specially formulated airbrush paints (I love the Vallejo Model Air range myself), and of course airbrush cleaning agents which may (or may not be) more efficient than Windex. What sort of paint are you using again? If it's not designed for "miniatures" or "modelling" (as most children's acrylics are not) it may well have humongous pigment grains, which are the primary cause of most clogs in needle-airbrushes - myself I use a entry-level spraymaster most of the time and even that clogs with heavily-pigmented paint; I hate to imagine what that same paint would do to something as highly-strung as an Iwata...
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 12, 2010 16:33:40 GMT -4
I'm using the Mr Hobby range of acrylics.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 12, 2010 19:08:37 GMT -4
I'm not familiar with their product, but after a quick googling they seem to be aimed at scale modellers, so the problem is probably somewhere else...
You said you were waiting 30 minutes for a layer to dry? That seems like an awfully long time to me; most acrylics dry in a few minutes ad should dry even quicker when atomised by an airbrush, due to the massive increase in surface area. How close are you getting the tip of the nozzle to the surface of the model?
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 12, 2010 20:51:49 GMT -4
Oh, about 20 cm or so.
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Post by randombloke on Jan 13, 2010 8:58:26 GMT -4
That should be OK... Of course that is one of the things that depends on the exact geometry of the airbrush, which means experimentation time...the brush you're using is a single action external mix, right? Try thinning the paint down to the consistency of milk as drewid suggested, stopping the mix nozzle down as far as it can go, and slowly increasing the paint draw until you get a the finest spray of colour your Aztec can make. Then find a clean sheet of copier paper and do some tests: Start close and move away from the page whilst drawing the nozzle across the surface until you get a nice semi-transparent coat with no dripping or splattering. Once you have the distance figured, test how long a streak at that distance takes to get to touch-dry; you can generally paint over it at that point without worrying too much about blending or smudging. Once you're at that point, go over one of your semi-transparent coats again to see how the colour builds up. This is the "traditional" airbrush method of laying down a colour. Finally check to see how long your brush can sustain a continuous blast at those settings.
Remember, with a SA/External type, the nozzle adjust controls both the paint flow and the spray dimensions - you want the minimum you can get away with, for reasons of control, unless you're working on a huge piece and simply need as much pain down as fast as possible.
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 18, 2010 2:15:41 GMT -4
Okay - more questions... but CSM ones.
The exterior of the SM; what colour (FS, if possible) would people recommend?
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 26, 2010 2:13:23 GMT -4
Anyone know of any colour photos of sector 4 of the SM? I can find one descent one but am trying to figure out an accurate colour scheme for the model interior. This seem to be the only one I can find:
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Post by spaceaholic on Jan 26, 2010 12:40:55 GMT -4
On the same page in which this image was obtained (from my site) you will also find images of some fuel cells I also have in the collection and their affilated colors; from that cant you extrapolate the balance of the bay coloration? Scott url www.SPACEAHOLIC.com/
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 27, 2010 2:14:58 GMT -4
Ah - thanks Scott! Were the fuel cells flown as shown in the photo above? The Revell kit has the fuel cells similar to them with the transport cover installed... but many diagrammes also have that same configuration (see this diagramme on your website www.spaceaholic.com/service_module_fill_vent_locationsx.jpg ).
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Post by spaceaholic on Jan 27, 2010 11:48:41 GMT -4
The Fuel Cells in the collection (and displayed in the image in the thread) do reflect the "as flown" configuration. The diagram you refer to shows the fuel cells with the transport covers installed (i have an example of one of these as well in the collection and can post an photo if desired)..these were removed before flight The attached image is an inflight photo of Sector IV after separation of Odyssey from its heavily damaged SM..though grainy you can note the absence of the covers in this shot. Attachments:
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 28, 2010 2:37:40 GMT -4
Oh dear! I've never done any 'scratch building', but I'll have to modify the tops of the fuel cells to make them look at least somewhat accurate.
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Post by Obviousman on Jan 29, 2010 0:32:00 GMT -4
All the plans arrived today. Wow!
Should I get these laminated? I want to keep them in best condition possible.
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